Taking a Bite out of the Big Apple

I recently completed another culinary tour of New York, this time focusing on Chinese and Thai. As always, it’s exciting, clocking in 10 restaurants in 10 hours. Here’s a taste, in order of meals, starting at 11 a.m.

Breslin at the Ace Hotel – this new, boutique hotel in Midtown has a very cool lobby. We grab a good, quick breakfast at the Breslin – April Bloomfield and Ken Friedman’s (owners of The Spotted Pig), latest Michelin-starred restaurant – and an even better latte at Stumptown coffee.

Ma Peche - just like David Chang’s original Momofuku with great pork buns but even more inspiring was their non alcoholic drink list- fabrastic homemade cola, ginger-ale and chamomile drink.

Kin Shop – the name, which means “to eat” in Thai, is the latest restaurant from Harold Dieterle, the first winner of Top Chef. Small operation, menu with some nice flavors.

Fatty Cue – this place has received a lot of buzz and for good reason. Outstanding ribs, bacon platter, fried chicken, and a really neat half bottle menu idea. For those of you who don’t know, these are the people behind Fatty Crab and it’s other incarnations.

Dominique Ansul – After all those savory dishes, you gotta have some sweets and there wasn’t a more apropos spot that this bakery in Soho headed by the former executive pastry chef for Daniel Boulud.

Porchetta – not Asian, but the restaurant in West Village that’s thriving on basically a one sandwich concept – the Roman pork sandwich. Lines out the door. It was delicious, a sandwich and a handful of sides produced in what amounts to 500 square feet and six counter seats with a few outside. Only in New York.

X’ian Famous Food - A tiny place that hits a very regionalized city in China (quick refresher – X’ian is considered China’s original capital, and where you can find the famous terra cotta soldiers).  Simple noodle dishes, great value.

It’s now 4 p.m. – seven places in five hours. Not that I’m counting.

Red Farm – in a word, outstanding. Every dish looked great and tasted better. No wonder we hear that they turn away  200 to 300  people a night. Located in the West Village, this is the restaurant by Joe Ng that pairs Asian flavors with “market sensibility.” It would have been cool to come for dim sum – Ng is considered a dim sum master chef.

Wong – Good food, but even cooler is the entirely open floor plan, a truly open kitchen including the dish area. You won’t find an inch of wasted space in this West Village spot. The idea here is a Chinese restaurant based on local farmers and sustainability – sound familiar?

The team is starting to get full.

Lani Kai – a restaurant and fun Polynesian cocktail lounge in Soho.  We take in the Polynesian cocktail menu along with some great appetizers.

Chinatown Brasserie – the last stop, and this restaurant (same chef as Red Farm but the space is much bigger) and food does not disappoint.

All the operations we visited -  large or small – had an intense interest in local, natural, sustainable foods. Since Big Bowl has been leading that charge for seven years, in this respect, we are not the second city.

In between, there was a lot of great conversation, and additional coffee and dessert stops not listed. No wonder I couldn’t sleep.

Does ‘natural’ have any real meaning?

The “natural” label causes quite a bit of chatter, especially as a growing number of products are making such a claim. Consumers, advocacy groups and the media question its validity. What does it mean? What are the qualifications?

In this country, the rules and definitions are murky at best. Read the USDA’s definition of ‘natural and you will see that the word  has nothing to do with how an animal is fed or raised but simply how it’s processed after slaughter. Is that at all logical? It means that if cattle has been fed a steady diet of hormones, steroids and antibiotics, it can be deemed natural  as long as the processing of meat  is “minimal” and avoids added colors and preservatives. In my mind – and likely in the mind of other consumers – the  natural claim has little to no value.

Some people can’t afford the pricier product that natural/organic often dictates or even care about a cleaner product. I get it and understand the position. But it’s wrong for companies to mislead consumers with a “natural” label, essentially allowing them to think  the product is better, and charging more for it.

You’ll notice that meat labeled “naturally raised” costs even more. The standard is voluntary, and does not address how the animal is raised. So if you’re willing to pay that kind of price, you’d want to know whether chickens lived their entire existence crammed in a cage or allowed to move around freely. You don’t know, and the USDA doesn’t require humane conditions under naturally raised labeling.

For us, none of those claims are good enough. For years at Big Bowl, only “never ever” chicken, beef and pork have been served. The farmers we work with make it clear and simple: always vegetarian fed animals, never ever given steroids, hormones or antibiotics. The animals are raised in humane conditions – the way animals are meant to be raised. These farmers through their “never ever” programs supply Freebird chicken, Creekstone and Meyers  beef. They’re eager to tell you what natural and naturally raised means.

Six years ago, we chose the “never ever” path not because it’s the trend (it wasn’t then, anyways) but because it’s a better product and we believe in the right thing to do.

You can and will taste the difference.